We recommend a combination of deworming with the most effective products available and testing manure for presence of parasite eggs.

We recommend a combination of deworming with the most effective products available and testing manure for presence of parasite eggs.Worms can develop a resistance to one de-wormer if it is given all of the time or if you underdose the horse. Traditionally we have done this by rotating de-wormers. Ask us about a rotation schedule.

Better yet, doing fecal exams to look for worm eggs in manure samples is the best way to tell if your program is working. Testing for worm eggs will also detect the horses that harbour the most worms and shed the most eggs. Often this may only be one or two in a herd. Deworming these more often and the others less often is a viable way to cut your costs and slow down development of resistance.

Worms thrive in moist, warm environments and are more active reproductively at this time of year so you must get serious about de-worming all of your horses in the spring and summer.

If your horse absolutely hates being de-wormed, take an old syringe, wash it out and fill it with something yummy like applesauce or molasses and water. Squirt this in your horse’s mouth every once in a while. Soon, he might not mind being de-wormed so much.

If you haven’t de-wormed your horse in a while, cut down on his hard feed (pellets, sweet feed) the day before, the day of and the day after his de-worming. The de-wormer may kill a lot of worms which could get stuck in his intestines. You don’t want large quantities of digested feed getting stuck behind the worm blockage because this causes colic.

When you use a paste de-wormer, put the syringe in the corner of your horse’s mouth and aim for the back of his tongue. Squirt the paste in one quick motion, making sure that your horse’s mouth is empty before administering. After squirting the de-wormer paste into your horse’s mouth, hold his head up for a moment to make sure he doesn’t spit it right out!

Horse de-wormer can make a dog really sick, so make sure you clean up any spilt paste and throw syringes away after they are used.

Mature horses should get a thorough dental exam at least once a year, and horses 2 -5 years old should be examined twice yearly.

It is important to catch dental problems early. If a horse starts behaving abnormally, dental problems should be considered as a potential cause. Waiting too long may increase the difficulty of remedying certain conditions or may even make remedy impossible. Look for the following indicators of dental problems from the American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP) to know when to seek veterinary attention for your horse:

Loss of feed from mouth while eating, difficulty with chewing, or excessive salivation.
Loss of body condition.
Large or undigested feed particles (long stems or whole grain) in manure.
Head tilting or tossing, bit chewing, tongue lolling, fighting the bit, or resisting bridling.
Poor performance, such as lugging on the bridle, failing to turn or stop, even bucking.
Foul odor from mouth or nostrils, or traces of blood from the mouth.
Nasal discharge or swelling of the face, jaw or mouth tissues.

Oral exams should be an essential part of an annual physical examination by a veterinarian. Every dental exam provides the opportunity to perform routine preventative dental maintenance. Mature horses should get a thorough dental exam at least once a year, and horses 2 -5 years old should be examined twice yearly.

Those horses that are vaccinated regularly may still get a mild case of the flu in an outbreak compared to those that are not.
If your horse is so far in the clear, administering a booster shot of Flu/Rhino would be a good thing!

FAQ’s regarding Equine Influenza

1. Is my horse protected? Having the Flu/Rhino vacciantion administered at a minimun of every 6 months should help keep it away but like all Flu’s, there continues to be new strains.
2. How contagious is the Flu? Horses that are exposed to others that are affected with influenza are fairly likely to come down with the flu themselves if they have not been properly vaccinated. Even secondary exposure via unaffected horses that have been exposed to horses with the flu can result in disease in unprotected horses.
3. Should I stay away from all events/competitions? No, go have fun but take some precautions. Vaccinate horses that are out with others, and minimize exposure to other horses at the show. Don’t share buckets, stalls, grooming equipment etc. Use common sense.
4. As a barn owner, how strict should I be with the movement of horses in and out of my barn? Requiring vaccination for horses coming in or leaving to shows etc would be a good first step. Quarantine of new horses for a couple of weeks is also prudent. Keeping the frequent travellers apart from the others as much as possible can also help to minimize transmission of viruses to other horses.

Planning for the wet season ahead!

Nothing worse than not being prepared for the change of season, gone are those lovely long days of summer and into the dreary days of winter…yes, already!

Time to clean the winter blankets and treat them, Thompson’s Water Deck Seal works best (the ‘water based’ one and spray on with a squirt bottle!). May have to repair that rain sheet also before you know, it will be needed!

Repair stalls from those nasty drafts that develope over time and get some good drainage rock where the ground gets too mucky during the rainy season (that’s all the time here!).

Hopefully you were able to stock up a bit on the local hay that actually came off the fields this year, finding it during the winter is always a drag….and expensive!

~Hermen Geertsema Equine Services Inc.
‘Striving for excellence in veterinary care’

If you are considering buying horse, it cannot be emphasized too strongly that you should have it examined by a veterinarian.

A buyer may not consider this necessary when the seller can produce a recent certificate of such an examination, but nevertheless the best plan is to obtain an independent opinion because the horse may not have shown symptoms of a serious defect previously.

Should the buyer wish to have the horse on trial, they must remember that nothing must be done to the horse such as removing the mane or replacing the shoes (even if those the horse is wearing require removal) until they have made up their mind whether to retain or return, because should they do so, it constitutes “purchase” and legally the seller is entitled to refuse return.

The buyer must understand that, from the stand point of the veterinarian, the horse can only be classified as suitable or unsuitable for purchase. The veterinary certificate will list the defects detected in the horse and will offer an opinion on the significance of the fault in relation to the purpose for which the horse is to be used. i.e. racing, dressage, jumping, or breeding.

Very often a prospective buyer may have noticed a particular vice and they should always mention this to the veterinarian because some vices or habits are not always visible at the time of the pre-purchase exam. You should also remember that a vet certificate does not indicate freedom from a vice. Nevertheless, the seller is under obligation to disclose to the buyer any vice or bad habit that is within his knowledge as failure to do so can nullify the transaction and horse can be returned.

Traditionally the maxim caveat emptor has been the rule of the law and a party who has bought a defective horse has no remedy, unless there is evidence either of express warranty or of fraud. In the general sale of a horse the stellar only warrants it to be an animal of the description it appears to be and nothing more; if the purchaser makes no inquiries to its qualities and turns out to be unfit for its use, he cannot recover against the seller. Veterinarians are expected to explain and record any medical abnormalities/concerns revealed while performing the exam but they are not, however, guaranteeing the soundness of the horse.

To help protect your horse from knocking himself while riding and popping a splint, invest in a good pair of splint boots.

The term splint is the colloquial name for a bony enlargement of one of the small metacarpal or metatarsal bones. A splint may develop for a variety of reasons. In the young horse it most frequently occurs as a sequel to the slight tearing of the interosseous ligament between the splint bone and cannon bone. This also results in lifting of the periosteum to which the interosseous is attached. The damage to the interosseous ligament occurs because of relative movements between the splint and cannon bones. Thus there is inflammation of the interosseous ligament and the periosteum causing pain and soft tissue swelling. Some calcification occurs and new bone is produced beneath the elevated periosteum, and ultimately a firmer union between the splint bone and cannon bone develops. Poor conformation such as bench knees and improper trimming of the foot resulting in the foot being placed unevenly to the ground rather then flatly, predispose to the development of splints. Incorrect proportions of calcium and phosphorous in the diet favor inflammation of splints. A splint may also develop as a sequel to trauma to the bone such as a kick. If the horse moves very closely the damage may be self inflicted, the narrow chested horse which toes-in being particularly prone. Trauma to the bone results in heamorrhage beneath the periosteum, lifting it away from the bone surface. This stimulates new bone production. There will also be soft tissue inflammation. As mentioned above, although splints occur in both front and hind limbs, the incidence in front limbs is much higher.

Treatment of splints:

For treatment, the aim is to reduce inflammation and thus relieve any pain. Rest is essential, confined turn out and even stall rest may be necessary. Anti infamatory drugs such as bute may be administered by mouth, or at the site of the splint. Corticosteriods may be injected around the splint or DMSO may be applied to the overlaying skin and will be absorbed through it. Whether or not anti-inflammatory drugs are used, the horse must be given enough time and this usually implies six weeks rest, sometimes longer is necessary. If the horse returns to work too early, the chances of re-aggravating the problem is high. Once the acute inflammation has subsided, the ultimate size of the swelling will depend on how much new bone has been produced. The new bone tends to remodel and will eventually decrease in size. One must remember that the visual swelling is not just bony. There is overlaying fibrous tissue which contributes to the size of the swelling. Some horses seem more prone to production of excessive amounts of new bone and occasionally the splint may interfere with the normal function of the suspensory ligament. In these circumstances surgical removal of the splint may be necessary.

To protect your horse from knocking himself while riding and popping a splint, invest in a good pair of splint boots. At the end of the day, splints don’t typically ever go away but they do get smaller. They usually don’t affect the overall soundness of a horse and are considered more of a “blemish” then an unsoundness.

Provided that the horse is not lame, then seedy toe can be managed by the farrier by careful trimming of the foot. Gradually the defect should simply grow out.

Thrush:

Thrush is a degenerative condition of the frog which results in the accumulation of black, foul smelling, moist material in the frog clefts. In the early stages, the horse is sound. If the condition is allowed to progress and extends into sensitive tissues the horse may become lame. The condition usually develops due to poor hygiene, failure to clean the feet regularly and leaving the horse standing in dirty, moist conditions. A horse with deep clefts is particularly susceptible. Horses with long toes and contracted heels will tend to develop frog clefts.

The treatment of thrush in horses is to eliminate the cause, to clean the foot thoroughly and to control any infection. The frog and frog clefts must be aggressively trimmed to remove all loose dead tissue. The foot should be thoroughly scrubbed with a dilute iodine solution. An antibiotic spray should be applied to the affected tissues. This will help to dry and harden them. The feet must be cleaned and treated daily until the thrush is resolved. The horse should stand on a clean, dry bed.

Seedy Toe or Separation of The Wall:

Separation may occur at the white line. The separation is usually greatest at the sole and becomes progressively less higher up the wall. If the separation occurs at the toe, it’s called seedy toe. The zone of separation is filled with dry, dead, cheesy like material. It is often seen in horses who’s toes have been allowed to grow too long. it does not cause lameness unless infection occurs or there is severe instability of the attachment of the wall to the foot resulting in inflammation of the sensitive laminae.

The cause of seedy toe is not properly understood. Provided that the horse is not lame, then the condition can be managed by the farrier by careful trimming of the foot. Gradually the defect should simply grow out. The toes should be kept short because the tip of the toe tends to act as a lever and may increase separation between the laminae.

Hoof Wall Cracks (Sandcracks)

Vertical cracks in the hoof wall either develop from the lower, baring surface of the wall and extend upwards (grasscrack) or develop at the coronary band and extend downwards (sandcrack). Sandcracks develop as a result of injury to the coronary band so that the secretory function of the horn producing cells is impaired either temporarily or permanently. The length of the sandcrack reflects the severity of the injury. If the cells permanently lose function, there will be a permanent crack down the length of the wall. If the cells recover function, then the crack will grow out slowly, at a rate of approx. 1 cm per month. Cracks developing at the baring surface of the wall are usually the result of the foot being overgrown and splintering. Some feet seem particularly prone.

Cracks which are superficial usually require no treatment other then regular, careful trimming of the foot. Applying a shoe can help stabilize the crack. If a deep crack becomes infected, then the infection must be controlled before and attempt can be made to stabilize the crack. Cooperation between vet and farrier is essential.

If it's in your blood to love horses...

We celebrate our companions with praise worthy of heroes. Indeed, horses have the hearts of warriors and often carry us into and out of fields of battle. Listen to stories of that once-in-a-lifetime horse; of journeys made and challenges met. The best of horses rise to the challenges we set before them, asking little in return. Those who know them understand how fully a horse can hold a human heart. Together, we share the pain of sudden loss and the lingering taste of long-term illness. We shoulder the burden of deciding when or whether to end the life of a true companion. In the end, we’re not certain if God entrusts us to our horses–or our horses to us. Does it matter? We’re grateful God loaned us the horse in the first place. -Author Unknown

Thus, praise is one of your most successful training tools and should be the easiest to use. Praise can take the form of words, touch or treats or just the release of pressure. Usually you use all of these at different times. Allowing the horse to stop the exercise is also a form of praise. Not because the horse hates the exercise and wants to stop, but because you are essentially saying “hey you won!” which makes the horse feel happy and successful. This also carries over to the next training session, when the horse remembers and associates feelings of success with the work. With the release of pressure, the horse finds comfort in the release, not the exercise itself.

Praise should always be accompanied with a smile. This is not always easy to do when you are concentrating. But you will find that the more you smile for your horse them more you will enjoy yourself.

Praise must occur close enough to the action that the horse is able to know what he did right. Praise must be sincere. Praise should not be used to calm a horse who is exhibiting undesirable behavior. Otherwise you are just teaching him that the undesirable behavior is OK and will be rewarded! If you are using treats as part of praise, you have to be selective with your words. Many horses learn to associate the words “good” or “good boy” with a treat and will stop whatever they are doing. They can also associate treats with the tone of your voice or even your thought which is why many people don’t like to use treats. Keep your praises varied, but remember, when your horse does a good job, reward even the smallest try from him with a praise.

If your horse has been off grass all winter, introduce him back onto to it in small increments.

Spring Grass – The grass is finally starting to grow, which is great for those who put horses on pasture or have hay fields but also means we have to be careful with Insulin Resistant horses that are prone to laminitis. If your horse has been off grass all winter, introduce him back onto to it in small increments. Start with only a half hour of grazing and then gradually up the time he is turned out on grass. A great option, once your horse gets used to it, is a grazing muzzle. This will only allow them to eat grass slowly and seems pretty effective in preventing them from getting overweight and developing laminitis.

Getting Back in Shape – Getting ready for show / riding season.
Time to dust off those ponies, not that it’s been dry enough to get any dust on them. Remember that if they have not been used much over the past few months to take your time ‘legging them up’, getting them into shape slowly so as to condition them before asking anything strenuous of them. This is the easiest time to injure them when they are full of energy from being idle and their muscles, tendons and ligaments are not conditioned. Also as riders we are anxious to get back at it and may tend to want to push too far, too fast. An ounce of prevention goes a long way!

I soon discovered that the outside rein (AKA the rein of opposition) has many critical jobs:

1. You control speed with it.

2. You use it to steer.

3. You use it to keep your horse straight.

4. When you combine the outside rein with both your driving aids and your bending aids for 3 seconds, you give the “connecting aids” to put your horse on the bit.

5. Later in training, you’ll use a momentary closure of seat, leg, and hand to give a half halt. (The half halt is one of the most essential concepts in riding because it allows you to improve your horse’s balance–an issue we’re constantly dealing with in training.)

LEARNING TO USE THE OUTSIDE REIN

This month, I’m going to give you some exercises to help you become more aware of your outside rein. I think this is a useful first step because riders instinctively rely more on their inside rein than their outside rein.

The first exercise is simply to ride in all three paces on the “second track” which is one meter away from the wall. One meter is a good distance because it’s fairly close to the wall. And you’ll soon find that the wall exerts some sort of “magnetic pull” that draws your horse back towards the track. Plus, it’s a small enough distance for you to clearly tell if you’re staying equidistant from the track.

Your goal is to make it all the way around the ring exactly one meter away from the track without having to make any corrections or adjustments. Pretend you’re on a 4-inch wide balance beam and any deviation off your line means you’ve fallen off the beam. If your horse is between your aids, it’s easy to keep him one meter from the wall.

Once you can do that, increase the difficulty of the exercise by making a circle. Ride one meter off the track as in the first exercise. Then ride a circle that begins and ends at exactly the same point. As you finish the circle, continue riding straight ahead maintaining your one-meter distance away from the track. The critical points are when you start and finish the circle. You’ll need your outside rein both to turn your horse onto the circle as well as to straighten him to tell him to go straight ahead again.

To add an even greater degree of difficulty to the exercise, turn down the centerline and leg yield over to the wall. When you’re one meter from the wall, interrupt the leg yield with your outside aids and redirect your horse’s energy so he travels straight ahead. Since your horse will be inclined to continue his sideways momentum and end up on the track, you’ll need to use the correct influence of your outside aids.

Have fun practicing these outside rein exercises, and next month, I’ll explore using the outside rein to connect your horse.

I’ve missed more than 9000 shots in my career. I’ve lost almost 300 games. 26 times, I’ve been trusted to take the game winning shot and missed. I’ve failed over and over and over again in my life. And that is why I succeed.

-Michael Jordan